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California has adopted the classic French grapes enthusiastically, but sometimes it neglects its own red-wine classic, Zinfandel. This is a variety of unknown origin: its closest relative is the southern Italian Primitive. The vine was brought to California from Europe in the 1850s, and it quickly became a favourite. Modern California winemakers are not sure how to treat Zinfandel. It can make long-lived, complex and individual wines — and it can also make the sort of very pale rose called "blush". Zinfandel can produce very large crops, but wine made from such grapes lacks character. The best Zin-fandels are deep red wines which come from old vines, pruned hard, producing small crops.

 
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